How to visit Auckland like a local: My favourite things to do in the city
For a few years, I was a reluctant Aucklander. These are the places and parts of the city I like best.
Ponsonby Road
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The Māori name for Auckland is Tāmaki Makaurau, which roughly translates to mean the place desired by many. Despite such a romantic name, Auckland can be hard to love at first. Indeed, Auckland isn’t my favourite place in New Zealand. It’s unlikely to be yours either. But – necessity dictates that you will most likely spend at least one night there before or after an international flight.
It’s by no means an awful place – it’s quite pretty as far as cities go, pincered between two harbours – but my guess is that you’re visiting New Zealand for nature, not city life. With that said, it’s easy to enjoy Auckland while in town. There’s some exceptional drinking and dining, and Waiheke Island is always a good idea.
For visitors to Auckland, there are the big, obvious things to do, like the Sky Tower — which daredevils can jump off, or walk around 192 metres off the ground.
But I wanted to steer you towards some of the more alternative and off-beat things to see, do and experience in Auckland – the kind of things that a local friend would show you. These are the places I like to hang out when I’m back in Auckland for weekend visits; where you can under the skin of the city.
If you have more time, or just want to see more of the city than the tourist highlights, then hopefully you can find something to enjoy in my guide to the best things to do in Auckland.
Auckland at a glance
How long to stay in Auckland
Speaking honestly, I would aim to spend only the minimum amount of time you need to in Auckland. One or two nights is ample, especially if you’re only in New Zealand for a short time. That’s enough time to check out a standout restaurant, maybe drop by a cocktail bar, and maybe dabble in some shopping or cultural activities.
I recommend looking into staying on Waiheke Island as an alternative to Auckland city; the island has good public transport, excellent places to eat, and is much more relaxed than the city centre. If you’re looking to spend a night in Auckland before catching an international flight, Waiheke can be the perfect place to decompress after what is likely to have been a busy trip around New Zealand. Getting there and away again is easy (see the Waiheke section).
Getting your bearings
Queen Street is the main artery through the centre of Auckland. Just off Queen Street you’ll find the Sky Tower and at the harbour end of the street is the ferry terminal (key for access to Auckland’s islands).
Britomart is the sleekest part of central Auckland, where you’ll find excellent restaurants and the design centred Hotel Britomart (a glorious place to stay)
Ponsonby is a neighbourhood right on the fringe of the city centre, with a long strip of boutiques from New Zealand designers, more great restaurants, and elegant wine bars
Karangahape Road borders the central city, adjacent to Ponsonby Road — Karangahape is where you’ll find a grungier, vintage vibe, with some fantastic cheap eats, gay bars, and music venues.
Waiheke Island is Auckland’s best day trip and the top thing to do if you’re looking for a relaxing day out before catching an international flight home (or for the day after your arrival).
Auckland’s highlights
Go kayaking in bioluminescence, just 20 minutes north of the city centre
Climb a volcanic cone for a view of the city, either Mount Eden/Maungawhau, North Head over in Devonport, or Rangitoto Island.
Head over to Waiheke to taste wine and bask in the sun
Dive into Auckland’s restaurants — book First Table for 50% off food. I do this all the time, it’s such good value. Use this link to get $5 credit when you sign up.
Where to stay
Visit Waiheke Island, the island of wine
Waiheke Island is famous for wine, but the beaches are equally as beautiful
A day trip to Waiheke Island is easily one of the best things to do in Auckland. And not just for tourists; locals love to head over to Waiheke too, whether it’s for a day trip, an event, or the occasional weekend escape.
The island is beautiful, with pristine beaches, harbour views and a microclimate that gives Waiheke more sunshine hours than the mainland.
Grape vines stretch across the hillsides, and the vineyards provide a setting for decadent lunches and all other kinds of excess.
It’s easy to catch the catch the ferry to Waiheke Island from downtown Auckland, and spend the day visiting vineyards.
If you’re aiming for vineyards, once on the island the easiest way to get around is to book a wine tour. I recommend going with Kiwi Connect, a small local company, because they like to strike a balance between seeing wineries and scenic places.
You can also catch public buses around the island, by just tapping on and off with your credit/debit card. They go past many of the more popular vineyards, like Tantalus and Te Motu, so you can visit one or two vineyards (there are several clustered together so you can easily walk between them) and stop for a lavish lunch somewhere.
Even if you don’t drink, Waiheke is worth visiting for its gorgeous scenery and some great places to eat; some personal favourites are Island Coffee, Mia Yeast, and Casita Miro, which make for the perfect trifecta of morning coffee, morning snack, and lazy lunch.
I love the corners where you can still see the hippie enclave Waiheke used to be, before it became the domain of the wealthy. Like crystal stall the Ostend Market that crops up on Saturdays, or the number of people going nude at Little Palm Beach.
ACTIVITY SPOTLIGHT
See the ‘Far End’ of Waiheke with Kiwi Connect
I highly recommend Kiwi Connect as tour company on Waiheke — they are Waiheke locals and really care about giving small groups the best experience. Their ‘Far End’ tour takes you to Man O’War and other out of the way vineyards, for a more exclusive look at Waiheke.
Or visit one of Auckland’s other islands
Waiheke might be the star of the show, but it’s far from the only island in the Hauraki Gulf. From Auckland, you can hop on a ferry to a number of different islands, in search of sun, sand, and rare birds.
Tiritiri Matangi is a beautiful island sanctuary located a 75-90 minute ferry ride north of Auckland. If you’re interested in New Zealand’s birdlife, or approach to conservation against a tide of predators, it makes for a good day out.
Ferries usually depart in the morning and return in the afternoon, allowing for a full day visit to the island.
Another island that provides sanctuary to our native birds is Rotoroa Island. Sitting alongside Waiheke Island, I love the beaches and walking trails on Rotoroa.
Escape ferries have started a service which takes you to Rotoroa in the morning and Waiheke for lunchtime — I haven’t done this yet, but it seems like the best of both worlds. With a couple of hours on Rotoroa you can visit the pristine Ladies Bay, then set off for lunch at Man O War, Waiheke’s beachfront vineyard.
Go kayaking in bioluminescence
Photo via Social Nature Movement — I didn’t take my camera out on the water
One of Auckland’s best kept secrets is that along the North Shore, you can find bioluminescence in the water.
A kayaking trip in this bioluminescence is easily the most unique thing I’ve done in Auckland — as far as I know, there are no other tours like this around New Zealand.
I’ve been swimming in bioluminescence before, in hidden spots in the Coromandel Peninsula, but this tour was my first experience of kayaking through.
As well as the novelty of kayaking at night, I was completely in awe of paddling through the sparkling water. The brightness varied, but in some patches each paddle stroke lit up a wave of electric blue.
I went with friends who had never seen bioluminescence before, and it was even more magical for them.
I can highly recommend this kayaking trip as a well-run, very memorable outing.
Explore Auckland's maunga — the volcanic cones that dot the city's skyline
The view from the summit of Mount Eden/Maungawhau
Sunset views from the top of North Head
Auckland city is spread across a volcanic field, with around 53 volcanic cones still nudging up above the ground. Many were destroyed as the city expanded, but some remain in good condition and still have archaeological evidence of Māori iwi (tribes) who once settled on the maunga (volcanic cones).
Exploring the maunga is one of the best things to do in Auckland if you want to understand more of the Māori history and unique geography of the Tāmaki Makaurau (the Māori name for Auckland).
Maungawhau/Mount Eden is one of the most impressive volcanoes to visit, thanks to it’s height and the incredible depth of its crater. You can pop into the visitor centre at Friends and Whau cafe to learn more about the history of Maungawhau and the other volcanoes, before strolling around the beautiful boardwalks for views of the city.
From the centre of the city, you can catch a ferry across to Devonport (it only takes 10 minutes) then walk to North Head (📍 Devonport) for sunset. The views from the top are panoramic, looking out to the harbour and back at the city skyline. I think it’s even better for views than Mount Eden.
If you want to spend some time exploring Devonport, which has a small village vibe to it, stop in at Flagstaff Gallery. As one of the longest-standing modern art galleries in Auckland, the Flagstaff Art Gallery has been representing local Kiwi artists since 1993.
Mt Victoria, also in Devonport (📍 Mt Victoria), has a World War II bunker — which is a now live music venue
Photo via Devonport Folk Music Club
One of my all time favourite things to do in Auckland is go to Bunker Hill Unplugged. This event, held by the Devonport Folk Music Club, takes place on the last Sunday of each month, and involves various folk musicians playing acoustic sets in the cosy underground bunker. There’s free tea and milo at intermission, and in winter there’s a log fire.
The Bunker is a remnant from Second World War fortifications. Walk around Mt Victoria and you’ll still see some of the old gun emplacements, installed there as part of an anti-aircraft defence system.
I think using the Bunker for folk music events is perfect. There is a touch of the surreal about heading underground to listen to musicians play banjos and fiddles. Even if you’re not in town for the Unplugged event, there are frequent club nights and concert nights held in The Bunker. If you like live music, and want to check out an event that most Aucklanders don’t even know about, take a look at their schedule.
Meanwhile, Rangitoto’s symmetrical cone rising from the sea is visible from almost anywhere on the coast in Auckland. Hiking up the low peak, such a prominent feature of the skyline, makes for a good day out from Auckland city.
Fuller ferries leave in the morning and return in the afternoon (three services each way, be careful not to miss the last one back to the city) which allow you enough time to knock off the two hour summit walk. If time allows, there are other trails along the rocky, volcanic shores of Rangitoto.
Explore the independent shops, bars, and restaurants along Karangahape Road
Karangahape Road is a ridgeline on the border of the city centre. Until the 1950s, this was the only road in central Auckland with a Māori name; it was a walking route between the Waitamata and Manukau harbours for Māori long before Europeans arrived. In the 19th century, people called it simply ‘the Road’. In the 20th century that became ‘K Road,’ as the strip morphed from a shopping street into a home for queer nightlife and sex work. Today, locals prefer to call it by its full name, Karangahape Road, in recognition of the long Māori history in the area. There’s still a little of the old seediness associated with the name K Road, with a couple of sex toy shops and strip clubs, but for the most part Karangahape Road is now known as a hub for independent and owner/operated restaurants, vintage shops, music venues, and boutique stores.
Saint Kevin’s Arcade is a small treasure trove of places to eat and drink. In the mornings, a favourite stop of mine is Bestie Cafe, where you can have a coffee in front of the large glass windows overlooking Myers Park towards the Sky Tower. If you don’t visit for breakfast, you can always stop by later in the day; the Arcade is also home to Sagrado Cantina, an excellent lunch spot with lovingly made tacos, Pici, a wine bar which does simple pasta exceptionally well, and Gemmayze Street, a Lebanese restaurant which takes over Bestie’s tables in the evening.
Pici
Sagrado Cantina
Once I’m caffeinated, I like to rummage around the vintage boutiques and op shops (second hand clothing shops). Vixen Vintage Boutique has been around for close to 30 years and stocks lots of retro denim and cowboy boots, among other sparkly things. Crushes is a go to gift store with a focus on New Zealand made and vintage. For lunch, check out the green-fronted Lebanese Grocer, a deli run by Beirut native Elie Assaf. The small, hidden courtyard out the back is a lovely green space to sit quietly and enjoy a shawarma stuffed with homemade pickles. If you need an afternoon pick me up, I love that pared back No 7 is open from morning into the evening, so you can get an afternoon coffee, and if you want that coffee to merge into a natural wine, and then a plate of pasta from a rotating menu, so be it.
Come evening, you’re spoiled for dinner options. The restaurants along Karangahape Road tend to be smaller, chef owner/operated setups, and many are firm local favourites. I love the neighbourhood vibe of long-standing Coco’s Cantina, which has a happy hour pasta. At Apero, French chef and owner Leslie serves the elegant cuisine of her homeland, while Tempero is where you’ll find South American flavours. After dinner, Sly Bar does fun cocktails or Caluzzi Cabaret might be the most fun night out you can have in Auckland.
If you happen to be in town on the first Thursday of the month, you should head along to Karangahape Road after 5pm for live music, markets, food stalls, restaurants deals and late night shopping. First Thursdays is a monthly event adding even more life and colour to Karangahape Road. Regular events include live music at the Pocket Park Stage outside the Pitt Street Pub, a local artist’s and creator’s market in Beresford Square, and a Muckaround Comedy Show in Whammy Bar.
Neighbourhood guide: Ponsonby Road
Ponsonby borders Auckland Central, with one long road – Ponsonby Road – following a crest that overlooks the CBD with views of the Sky Tower. The road is a strip of chic bars, restaurants, independent boutiques and local designers. Narrow streets falling away from the main road lead into quiet rows of heritage Victorian-era villas shaded by gnarled old trees. As a visitor, Ponsonby Road is a great place to get a slice of local life. There’s nothing to ‘do’ per se, except eat, drink, and browse shops. San Ray is an excellent breakfast spot, with a menu that veers away from the New Zealand classics of eggs benedict and avocado on toast, offering up options like jalapeno cornbread and pineapple french toast. Daily Bread is my go to for something quicker, with a good range of pastries.
Shops worth checking out include the Poi Room, a gallery-like store supporting over 100 local artists, and featuring ceramics, sculpture, paintings, and a stunning collection of pounamu. Endemic world has art prints and photography from local artists, while Haus of FLOX, the store of aerosol and stencil artist, Flox, who specialises in native birds and flowers, stocks a range of gifts featuring her striking designs. Apothecary style Curionoir is the only Māori-owned and operated perfumery in the world, owned by Tiffany Witehira, who designs and bottles perfumes in Auckland.
When you’re ready for a drink, The Tainted Rose is a great place to perch at the leaner in the window and people watch. Another go-to spot is Beau Wine Bar, which has a great wine list and excellent share plates.
For dinner, Prego is a local institution, serving Italian fare since 1986. Another Italian classic is Farina, while Blue Breeze Inn is another long standing local favourite.
Neighbourhood guide: Britomart
Mons Royale, Britomart
Britomart is a small grid of upmarket boutiques and restaurants, many located in heritage buildings, next to the central train station. What was once a dilapidated transport hub has seen impressive urban regeneration in the past two decades; Britomart today is the best central city precinct. Renovated heritage warehouses and sleek modern buildings house a curated selection of boutiques, restaurants, and of course, Hotel Britomart, a beautifully designed focused hotel. If you’re staying in or near Britomart, it’s an easy place to stroll around and – most importantly – eat.
Amano is a Britomart stalwart. It’s open all day, so you can stop in for coffee and pastry in the morning, for lunch to pick up a slice of pizza from the bakery section, or for dinner in the expansive, high-ceilinged exposed brick interior. Another bakery option is Daily Bread (which also has an outpost in Ponsonby). I always enjoy the bread and pastries from Daily Bread, but the Britomart space feels too cavernous to be cosy; I prefer to get my goodies to go and sit in Takutai Square if the sun is out. In summer, there are bean bags on the lawn, perfect for sprawling in.
Another recent find is The EOS Coffee, a small specialty coffee shop run by award winning barista Hoony Chae. There’s a range of espresso and non-espresso based drinks on the menu, but I’m happy with a standard flat white; I think this might be one of the best coffees I’ve had in Auckland.
Gloria’s
Gloria’s
Eos Coffee
There’s some excellent shopping in Britomart. Stores have been curated, so there are lots of New Zealand brands. I love browsing outdoor gear at Mons Royale, and window shopping the handbags at Deadly Ponies. Other New Zealand names include Karen Walker and Kiri Nathan, a Māori owned label.
The main shopping destination in Britomart is Commercial Bay is a giant, gleaming, high-end shopping mall. It’s a maze inside, but worth diving into to find Gloria's, a sandwich deli with artisan focaccia sandwiches, for lunch. You wouldn’t expect a mall to be home to some of Auckland’s best eats, but Ahi, a restaurant by locally famous chef Ben Bayly, is one of the best places to try New Zealand cuisine. What exactly is New Zealand food, exactly? Well, that’s what Ahi’s menu sets out to explore. There’s lots of local seafood and produce on the menu, which notes how far away from the restaurant these ingredients were sourced. It’s fine dining, but in a fairly casual atmosphere – Kiwis like to keep things laid back.
Ahi
Ahi
Other excellent restaurants around Britomart are Mr Morris, by local chef Michael Meredith, and Alma, an Andalusian-inspired restaurant with stunning cocktails.
For dessert, leave behind the polished Britomart square and head over to Giapo, located on the rather grim Fort Street, for the best ice cream in Auckland. Giapo, the ice cream maker, believes normal ice cream is boring and has created the whole enterprise around reinventing how we eat ice cream. The result is over the top toppings, upside down offerings like broken cones, elaborate and decadent chocolate drenched cones, and flavours that are surprising and delightful.
The Caretaker is one of Auckland’s best cocktail bars, found down a set of discreet stairs down an alley off the main square in Britomart. Inside the dimly lit, lushly decorated bar, people sip decadent cocktails around small tables lit with haloes of golden light. The bar doesn’t have a traditional menu — your server will simply ask you what you feel like drinking, and you’ll get a surprise drink whipped up for you based on your whims. Go along on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday night from 9pm and you’ll also be treated to live jazz, to complete the ambiance of a golden age New York cocktail lounge.
Auckland Art Gallery/Toi o Tāmaki
Auckland Art Gallery/Toi o Tāmaki is a beautiful building on the edge of Albert Park, with a light-filled wood and glass atrium and four levels of exhibition spaces. This is New Zealand’s largest gallery of visual arts, with 18,000 artworks spanning New Zealand historic, modern, and contemporary art, as well as Māori and Pacific art.
Ngā Taonga Tūturu: Treasured Māori Portraits, a series of Gottfried Lindauer’s 19th-century portraits of Māori, is a highlight. I also love the sculpture project on the roof terrace. A long, light-filled and glass walled corridor leads to the terrace; shaded by large trees from Albert Park, and feeling tucked away from the rest of the gallery, the space is the perfect setting for sculptural artworks.
The details
Free entry
Go to a show at Basement Theatre
With a bar that spills out into seats crowded into the corner of a carpark, Basement Theatre feels like the kind of cool, gritty urban space you might find in Melbourne or London.
In their own words, Basement Theatre “is a place where urgent and adventurous live performance made by independent artists is incubated and supported.”
It’s one of the coolest venues in central Auckland, with a constantly changing line up of events.
Head along for a show and support some of New Zealand’s emerging talent, and you’ll get to have a drink at a cool bar and mingle with people in the local creative scene.
Visit one of Auckland’s wild West Coast beaches
The West Coast of Auckland
Within an hour’s drive, I can be on the wild black sand beaches of the west coast.
Piha
Piha is located a 45 minute drive west of Auckland's city centre, along a road which climaxes in a view of Piha framed by bush-clad hills.
Don’t let the proximity to New Zealand’s largest city fool you; once you start driving through the Waitakere Ranges, the roads narrow dramatically, rainforest rises up around you, and most signs of civilisation fade away.
Even the houses out west change, from regular suburbia to a mish mash of humble beach houses and off-grid abodes. Despite the popularity with day trippers, there’s a sense that Piha is the kind of place people end up when they want to hide from the world, with cottages tucked into the bush and pot holed roads feeling almost deliberately difficult to navigate.
Located just south of Piha Beach, the Mercer Bay Loop track is one of the best short walks in Auckland, edging along the top of high cliffs which provide spectacular views of the coastline and the monster waves rolling in from the open sea.
For a great day out, walk the Mercer Bay Loop and then make your way down to Piha Beach. There you’ll find a small general store, a couple of restaurants, and ice cream served out of a converted shipping container.
Grab something to go, or take your own snacks for a beach picnic, and enjoy strolling on the black sand.
Just beware that the popularity of the Mercer Bay walk means it can be hard to find a carpark — it’s easier to get a spot in the late afternoon or evening.
Whatipu and the Omanawanui Track
There are dozens of epic walks all around Auckland, but the Omanawanui hike packs in the best views out of all of them.
As an added bonus, you get to drive out to Whatipu Beach to walk the track.
It’s a gorgeous drive through native bush and across the occasional ford that makes it feel like you are out in the wilderness, and not one hour from Auckland. Just note that the last 9km are on a narrow, gravel road.
After walking the Omanawanui track, you can stroll up and down Whatipu Beach. Time it right and you’ll have a beautiful sunset here.
Visit Auckland Museum for exhibitions and cultural performances
Auckland Musuem, as seen from the Domain
The Auckland Museum acts as kaitiaki, or guardians, for a significant collection of Māori taonga, or treasures.
This makes the museum an important stop in Auckland if you’re interested in learning more about Māori culture, history, and art.
The Museum has two dedicated Māori galleries and has Māori performances on a regular basis.
The park around the museum — the Domain — is also great for exploring.
Bar Queenstown, the rest of New Zealand can be pretty quiet after 7pm, so while you’re in the city, make the most of the nightlife.
Caretaker is easily one of Auckland’s best cocktail bars.
The entrance is down a set of discreet stairs down an alley off the main square in Britomart. Inside the dimly lit, lushly decorated bar, people sip decadent cocktails around small tables lit with haloes of golden light.
The bar doesn’t have a traditional menu — your server will simply ask you what you feel like drinking, and you’ll get a surprise drink whipped up for you based on your whims.
Go along on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday night from 9pm and you’ll also be treated to live jazz, to complete the ambiance of a golden age New York cocktail lounge.
A few more cool places to eat and drink:
Giapo, the ice cream maker, believes normal ice cream is boring and has created the whole enterprise around reinventing how we eat ice cream. The result is over the top toppings, upside down offerings like broken cones, elaborate and decadent chocolate drenched cones, and flavours that are surprising and delightful.
I love going to the prohibition themed gin bar the Churchill, which is located on the 20th floor of the Four Points by Sheraton Hotel. From up there you get amazing views of the city, and excellent drinks as well.
Thank you for reading
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AUTHOR BIO
I’m a freelance travel writer from New Zealand with bylines in National Geographic Travel, Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and more.
I’ve travelled up and down beautiful Aotearoa and I love sharing my recommendations for the best places to visit in New Zealand.
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