If you plan on spending 14 days in the South Island, you can cover a lot — but you’ll have to be okay with skipping some things too.

A rugged and wild coastline near Punakaiki

Disclosure: This two week itinerary contains affiliate links to products I trust. I may make a small commission if you book through these links, at no extra cost to you. Thanks for your support.

It’s funny how our position at the bottom of the world makes everyone think New Zealand is small.

Maybe it’s because we’re overshadowed by Australia, our much larger cousin. Or maybe it’s because our scrappy little nation gets left off world maps more often than we’d like.

It’s not because our country is tiny. If we’re small than Italy is small, Colorado is small, the United Kingdom is miniature.

The South Island alone is the same size as Nepal, or Nicaragua.

It takes more than 11 hours to drive from the top of the South Island to the bottom, non-stop. And stopping is the whole point, so a road trip spanning the whole island can take months, let alone weeks.

Planning a two week South Island road trip is a challenge.

How to see the highlights without spending large chunks of your days driving?

There is no easy answer to that. The solution will inevitably involve skipping past places you might have wanted to visit, choosing between this or that, and letting go of the need to see everything.

This two week South Island itinerary lands somewhere in the middle of the main tourist route and a slightly lesser trodden path. The luxury of two weeks means you can see more than just the lakes and mountains in the south.

The northern part of the South Island holds just as many treasures.

It’s just a suggestion; use it as a starting point

How to spend 14 days in the South Island

Day 1: Start in Christchurch
Day 2: Drive north to Kaikoura
Day 3: Go whale watching in Kaikoura
Day 4: Picton and the Marlborough Sounds
Day 5: Marahau
Day 6: Spend a day exploring Abel Tasman National Park
Day 7: Punakaiki
Day 8: Arthur’s Pass, spend the night on the road to Aoraki
Day 9: Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park
Day 10: Wanaka
Day 11: Wanaka and Mount Aspiring National Park
Day 12: Queenstown
Day 13: Doubtful Sound
Day 14: Queenstown

Day 1: Start in Christchurch

Christchurch is the biggest city in the South Island, and makes a logical place to start your trip (although you could equally do this in reverse, starting in Queenstown!).

If you’ve had a long journey to get to Christchurch — say you flew into Auckland on an international flight, then hopped on a domestic flight south — then you’ll most likely want to stay a night or two to find your feet.

One night is probably all you need, though.

And if you feel like you don’t need that day to recover, skip straight through and make your way to Kaikoura.

I like Christchurch well enough, but I would much rather spend my time outside of the South Island’s towns. The part of Christchurch I usually see the most of is the airport, and I’ll typically land, pick up a rental car, and head out of town as soon as I can.

If I do spend a night in Christchurch, I like to pay a visit to New Regent Street. Gin Gin is a nice spot to have a drink and people watch for a while, and Twenty Seven Steps is a wonderful little restaurant.

After dinner, it’s either The Last Word for a cocktail or Rollickin’ Gelato for dessert.

WHERE TO STAY IN CHRISTCHURCH

$$ — Novotel Christchurch Cathedral Square is right in the middle of town, on the edge of Cathedral Square. I’ve stayed here before and loved being so central.

$ — The Bealey Quarter is a very serviceable budget option. I really liked that I could park for free here and walk into the centre, which was around 15 minutes (parking in the central city hotels can be a pain).

FEATURED STAY

Crowne Plaza Christchurch
Set in a tall tower building, this art deco styled hotel has great views of the city — I loved the little window seat in my room.

Check rates

Day 2-3: Kaikoura

Caught between the mountains and the sea, Kaikoura is one of my favourite places in the South Island.

As well as being beautiful, it’s home to abundant marine life — you can spot dolphins from the side of the road.

A canyon two kilometres deep runs right alongside the coast, bringing sperm whales and other big sea creatures in along with the currents that sustain these giants and their prey.

Heading out on a whale watch boat in Kaikoura, you’ll see on the boat monitors just how deep the sea is below you. One hundred metre, 150 metres — then all of a sudden, in the space of seconds, there’s more than a kilometre of depth directly below the boat.

I loved spotting the sperm whales, even though glimpses of them are fleeting.

If you want something more immersive, there’s also the option to swim with dolphins. This is still on my wish list; I held off for a long time because I was concerned about the ethics, but I have finally decided I think the operation in Kaikoura isn’t having a negative impact on the dolphins. I’ll swim with them one day.

Even on land you can spot wildlife.

Walk the Kaikoura Peninsula Walkway to see the seal colony there. You might even see rogue seals hopping through the car park.

If you want to get a taste of the seafood in the area (the name Kaikoura neans ‘to eat crayfish,’ after all) head a little north of town, to a humble roadside stall serving up freshly caught crayfish. Nin’s Bin is iconic, and possibly one of the best places to try seafood in New Zealand.

The exterior of the Sudima Hotel in Kaikoura — FEATURED STAY

Sudima Kaikoura
This hotel is right on the waterfront, opposite Dolphin Encounter and walking distance to both town and the seal colony. I loved the minimalist, scandi decor, and having breakfast while watching the sunrise from the dining area.

Read reviews

Day 4: Explore the Marlborough region

It takes around two hours to drive from Kaikoura up the coast to Picton.

On the way, I recommend stopping at The Store, a seaside cafe and campground (I also recommend spending a night here if you’re in a campervan).

Marlborough is famous for two things — sauvignon blanc wine, and the gorgeous Marlborough Sounds.

I’m not a fan of sauvignon blanc, so the vineyards around Blenheim hold little interest for me, but they can make for a good lunch stop. I recommend the Saint Clair Family Estate for an excellent platter with a glass of wine alongside.

A much more alluring prospect, for me, are the the drowned river valleys of the Marlborough Sounds.

From Picton, you can catch a watertaxi deeper into the Marlborough Sounds, and hike sections of the stunning Queen Charlotte Track (if you have time, the entire walk is wonderful — it takes 3-4 days to walk the whole thing).

You can also head into the Marlborough Sounds via road, but it takes a long time to get anywhere.

Roads are narrow, often unsealed, and in some places follow razor sharp ridgelines. And they’re one way.

If you’re game, French Pass feels like the end of the world. It’s a nerve-racking but beautiful drive.

If you’re camping, I highly recommend the Pelorus Bridge campground. Even if you’re not camping, you should stop here for the short walks and a swim in the glorious river.

hopewell lodge marlborough sounds — FEATURED STAY

Hopewell Lodge
A family-run lodge deep in the Marlborough Sounds.

See more

Day 5: Drive to Marahau or Kaiteriteri

From Picton, you can take the Queen Charlotte Drive, but only if you’re prepared for an adventure.

Day 6: Spend the day hiking and kayaking in Abel Tasman National Park

Abel Tasman National Park is a truly stunning spot at the top of the South Island.

It’s ideal for kayaking, hiking, and swimming, with golden beaches strung out along the coastline. You can walk sections of the Abel Tasman Coast Track as day walks, or rent kayaks to explore parts of the coast, with water taxis helping you link up these different adventures.

MORE THINGS TO DO IN THE AREA

On a Thursday night, the Park Cafe hosts an open mic night. It’s wholesome local fun.
If you drive past Riwaka and have a spare 30 minutes, head in to see the Riwaka Resurgence. It’s a magical spring welling up straight from the earth. The water is ice cold, so you can go for a cold plunge — I did this with friends after a 3 day kayaking and hiking trip in Abel Tasman and it felt amazing for our tired muscles.

WHERE TO STAY NEAR ABEL TASMAN NATIONAL PARK

Kaiteriteri is a resort-like town right on a stunning golden sand beach. It truly is a beautiful location, but it’s pretty busy and quite developed by the waterfront, so doesn’t have the remote nature feel I often look for.

Marahau is much smaller but right at the start of the park. I prefer the laid back vibe of Marahau.

Campervan or dorm room | I really enjoyed staying at The Barn Cabins and Camping in Marahau. It’s a cool spot with good facilities, even if it is on the pricier side for camping. I stayed in a dorm room as it cost about the same amount and I had a bed.

Day 7: Head down to the West Coast and Punakaiki

The West Coast of the South Island is one of my favourite parts of the whole country.

It’s wild and beautiful, and Punakaiki is a perfect little microcosm of what makes the region special.

Right on the edge of Paparoa National Park, there are short walks in the area which give you a taste of the dense rainforest that lines the coast. Then there’s the beach itself.

The section of road just north and south of Punakaiki is possibly the most scenic bit of highway in New Zealand.

One night in Punakaiki is enough to explore the walks in the area. As well as the blowholes walk, I love the Porari River Trail, and a little further north the Ballroom Overhang track by Fox River.

Day 8: Drive through Arthur’s Pass, spend the night on the road to Aoraki

You could spend the night in almost any of the small towns strung out along the lonely roads to Aoraki.

I stayed in Springfield Motel and recommend it whole heartedly. It’s a small family run place with a fantastic kitchen and a hot tub — both welcome facilities for a traveller weary of hiking meals.

Day 9: Aoraki Mount Cook National Park

The added bonus of staying in the Springfield Motel is that in the morning, your first stop of the day can be the Sheffield Pie shop ten minutes down the road. They open at 6.30am, so no matter if you’re an early riser. You’ll be in line with the truckies and tradies getting their pie fix in before the sun is fully up.

There’s a good few hours of driving between Springfield and Aoraki/Mount Cook. Funnily enough, you’ll also drive past the Fairlie Bakehouse, another legendary pie shop. So if you have the stomach for it (and not everyone does, I confess with pride that I do) you can wrap your laughing gear around a second pie of the day.

I prefer the Sheffield pies myself, but I think it’s an excellent topic for debate.

The other stop of note is Lake Tekapo. It’s worth taking a look at the deep blue lake, but I somehow always feel like Tekapo is missing something. The town just doesn’t feel like it has much personality, which is maybe a lot to ask of a small village in what roughly amounts to the middle of nowhere, but for a stop that features so heavily on tourists’ itineraries, I find it somewhat forgettable.

Never mind, Lake Pukaki is a stunner.

That’s a lake you will really want to stop and admire, especially on a clear day when you can see straight across the ice blue water to the face of Aoraki himself, the mighty mountain that stands above all other mountains in New Zealand.

Our highest peak is a beautiful one, and it’s a matter of true joy that you will have that shiny spire in your sights for much of the drive into Mount Cook (weather permitting — the clouds are fickle here, and love to clothe the mighty Aoraki).

Sufficiently fuelled by pies, you can spend the afternoon hiking in the national park.

There aren’t so many hikes to choose from; Hooker Valley is the main draw, but Sealy Tarns is right up there for the wow factor (and up there in height, it involves a lot of stairs). Then there’s Mueller Hut, for anyone willing to push on further after Sealy Tarns.

One of the key challenges of visiting Aoraki/Mount Cook National Park is that securing accommodation can be next to impossible if you’re travelling in summer.

Outside of peak season, you can find rooms booking a month or so in advance; in peak season, you have to be booking a year in advance.

If you don’t find a room, and you’re not in a campervan (in which case the campground is spectacular) your options are to look around Twizel or Ohau.

FEATURED STAY

Aoraki Alpine Lodge
A basic but very serviceable place to stay, with a great shared kitchen and lounge area. With almost nowhere to eat in the park, having cooking facilities was perfect.

See more

Day 10: Wanaka

Franz Josef to Wanaka is around four hours driving.

I love stopping at Ship’s Creek, where you can go on a nice walk along the dunes and climb a viewing tower to look out to sea.

Fantail Falls is another beautiful stop deep in Haast Pass, just be aware that the carpark there is tiny and often full to the brim (it can be easier to park on the side of the road before you reach the carpark).

The Blue Pools is another very scenic spot. The short walk through the beech forest here feels magical, and the pools themselves are incredibly blue and freezing cold.

In Wanaka, you can spend the afternoon strolling along the lakefront and enjoying the scenery.

Eat: Big Fig is a decent lunch spot

Day 11: Wanaka and Mount Aspiring National Park

You could just as easily head to Queenstown on this day, and explore Glenorchy. That’s one way to get into Mount Aspiring.

But, one of my favourite drives in the South Island is the trip into Raspberry Flat carpark. It takes a while to get there from Wanaka; allow 90 minutes. The distance isn’t great, but you’ll be on a gravel road, driving through fords, and stopping a lot to admire the scenery.

If you don’t want to drive that far, there are other options for walks closer to Wanaka.

Roy’s Peak, of course, or Isthmus Peak. Or even modest little Rocky Mountain.

Day 12: Queenstown

It’s only around an hour from Wanaka to Queenstown. You can take either the high road or the low road.

The high road will take you over the Crown Range, a beautiful road but winding road through the mountains.

The low road is a more direct but less scenic route that passes by Cromwell and the Kawerau Gorge. This route does take you past some of Queenstown’s wineries; stopping at Mt Rosa for a platter and a glass of rose is a sheer delight. Kinross is en route too, and the ideal place to do a tasting.

Both roads take you past Arrowtown, so it’s worth stopping here too. You only need an hour to wander up and down the main street, but you could easily spend more time down the road at Mora Wines, one of my favourite lunch spots in the area.

With an afternoon in Queenstown, you can stroll the lakefront, stop for a drink at Perky’s floating bar, or find your way to another restaurant; the town is full of them.

If you’re up for something more, I highly recommend a cruise across the lake on the TSS Earnslaw in the evening. The 5pm departure is the perfect time to enjoy late afternoon light on the lake in summer, followed by a very indulgent BBQ dinner and the best part of all — a sheep dog show.

Day 13: Visit Doubtful Sound and the wilds of Fiordland

From Queenstown, the most popular way to experience Fiordland is with a day trip to Milford Sound.

I’ve been to Milford Sound a couple of times, and I feel like I have finally concluded that a day trip isn’t worth it. Especially not by bus.

It’s at least four hours of travel each way if you go by bus. I don’t need to tell you that’s exhausting.

Driving is even more exhausting, so I wouldn’t even consider that as an option. If you really want to go, do a bus tour to save yourself the drive. And if you have the budget, fly back.

A flight can save you a lot of time travelling, and give you spectacular views from the air. I haven’t done this yet, as it’s outside my budget, but everyone I know who has done this has loved it.

If you want to drive to Milford Sound, the only way to really do it justice without grinding yourself into the ground is to drive from Te Anau. For that, you need another couple of days in your itinerary, and your trip will end up looking different to the one I have outlined here. Most likely, you’ll need two nights in Te Anau.

The best option if you’re short on time, and one I can truly recommend with my whole heart, is an overnight cruise on Doubtful Sound. I travelled with RealNZ, with the option to take a bus to and from Queenstown.

That was perfect for me, and even though this is essentially two days of your itinerary, it’s time well spent.

The overnight trip lets you fully experience Fiordland and Doubtful Sound, getting to see and feel how untamed this part of the country really is. In contrast to Milford Sound, where you’re in a line of boats following each other around the fjord, on Doubtful you’ll be alone on the water. Just you and your 50 odd ship mates.

It’s perfect serenity.

And that’s before they switch off the engines to the boat and let you experience the complete absence of human made noise; all you’ll hear is the waterfalls and bellbirds of this vast, dense, beautiful forest and fjord it holds.

MILFORD SOUND TOURS

Take a day tour if you don’t want to drive on the long and winding road in to Milford. I recommend this small group option as they sail with Cruise Milford, which is the only family operated cruise boat in Milford Sound.
If you’re short on time, or just don’t fancy spending 8 hours on a bus, you can coach in and fly back, or vice versa. This way you can still see the stunning Fiordland scenery along Milford road, but save yourself some hours in the bus.
There is also the option of flying both ways.

ITINERARY NOTES

You could also spend a night in Milford Sound, at the Milford Sound Lodge (they have campervan options if you’re on a budget).

This would mean a long drive there and back, but staying in the sound is a pretty unique experience.

You could then use your drive back to Queenstown to tackle some of the longer hikes along the Milford Road, like Gertrude Saddle, Key Summit, or Lake Marian, instead of spending that day in Glenorchy.