Exploring the Coromandel Peninsula in New Zealand: The best places to go and things to do
My home region has beautiful beaches and great walks to discover
Little Bay, in the far north of the Coromandel
I grew up on a Coromandel Peninsula dairy farm 10 minutes from Pauanui Beach.
Summer holidays meant swimming in the river that flows out of the Coromandel ranges, and roaming barefoot around tiny beach towns.
It took me a while to appreciate how beautiful the Coromandel is; probably around a decade. That’s about how much time I spent travelling the world, looking for perfect waves to surf, clear rivers to swim in, and beaches away from crowds.
It wasn’t until I came back home as an adult that I realised all of these things — and many more — are right here in the Coromandel.
You can visit the Coromandel as part of a longer North Island road trip, or as a destination in itself (it makes a great weekend escape from Auckland).
So, if you would like a local’s guide to the Coromandel, here we go. These are my favourite things to do in the Coromandel Peninsula, the best places to visit.
First, some beautiful places to stay in the Coromandel
Because it is well worth planning your trip around these places to stay.
FEATURED STAY
Buffalo Lodge
A serene lodge in regenerating native bush just north of Coromandel town.
FEATURED STAY
Wairua Rainforest River Retreat
An exceptional place to stay, I really can’t recommend it highly enough. Tucked away in the forest, with a forest bath, a hot tub under the stars, and a fire pit, Wairua feels like an exclusive little piece of paradise.
The top places to stop on a road trip around the Coromandel Peninsula
Below, I have outlined a few of my favourite things to do in the Coromandel, if you were driving from Thames up the West Coast to Coromandel town, then down the other side of the peninsula via Whitianga and Hahei.
The Coromandel Peninsula used to be a bit of a hippie heaven. There is still at least one commune (Wilderlands, near Whitianga — they sell organic veggies) and you might stumble across the odd nude beach.
That grounded, earth-loving and quirky character translates into some of the best things to do in the Coromandel.
My favourite places are the small, quiet places — but you can also enjoy a faster pace at these spots.
Hike the Pinnacles
The most famous hike on the peninsula is the Pinnacles walk, a climb up to a 360 panorama view from a rocky crag.
It’s a 3 hour hike up, so you can get up and down in a day quite easily (although it is a steep climb in places).
It’s even better at sunrise and sunset — I have stayed overnight at the large DOC hut at the top to make the most of both. The hut is exceptionally well equipped (with showers, lights, cooking equipment) but also popular with school groups, so you could be sharing it with 40 odd youngsters.
Just note that it’s a 30 minute drive from Thames (and the main road) down a mostly gravel road to get to the start of the track.
Check out Driving Creek Railway
One of the absolute best things to do in the Coromandel is take the Driving Creek Railway, a tiny mountain train that trundles through native bush to incredible views.
The railway was originally built by Barry Brickell, a potter who wanted to use the rails to transport wood, clay and sculptures up and down the hillside to his kiln, which was deep in the bush to avoid smoking out his neighbours.
It quickly became popular with tourists and has been chugging up and down the hill since the early 80s.
I have very fond childhood memories of the train and even now as an adult I love it. There’s nothing else like it in New Zealand.
New Chums Beach
This is a legendary spot, incredibly beautiful but you need to walk for 20 minutes over a hill to get there.
Luke’s Kitchen in Kuaotunu
Photo via Luke’s Kitchen
If you only eat in one place in the Coromandel, make it Luke’s Kitchen. This seaside pizzeria is something of an institution and is always buzzing in summer.
Opito Bay
From Kuaotunu and Luke’s Kitchen, head up and over a hill over the true-to-Coromandel-type (steep, twisty, and gravel in patches) hill to Opito Bay. The long scythe of honey-coloured sand is backed by golden hills and contrasts delightfully with the bright blue water.
From the southern end of the beach, climb the steps to reach the top of an old Māori pa - defensive ditches are still visible - and enjoy views back across the bay.
The Lost Spring in Whitianga
If you’re not game to dig your own hot pool at Hot Water Beach, just go to the Lost Spring in Whitianga.
This is a natural hot pool that improbably is right in the middle of town — although it doesn’t feel like it when you’re inside the jungle-like springs.
It’s adults only, so a pretty relaxing experience, and you can get cocktails and spa treatments to go along with the soak.
Cathedral Cove
Cathedral Cove arrived on the world stage in the Prince of Narnia, and gained even more fame in a Macklemore music video.
Now, this stunning bay
A cyclone wiped out steps down to the beach not long ago, but you can still take kayaks or taxi boats to the beach for the day.
BOAT TRIPS TO CATHEDRAL COVE
This summer just been (March 2024) I was working on updating a New Zealand guide book, which involved going on a lot of different boat trips to Cathedral Cove as part of my research.
It’s a tough job, but as they say — someone has to do it.
I enjoyed the boat trips leaving from Whitianga, but even if you catch the zippy little Hahei Explorer you’ll see more or less the same things.
All of the boats will whisk you around the marine reserve.
You should note, though, that none of the boat tours land at Cathedral Cove. To reach the beach, you’ll need to get a water taxi.
SOME LOCAL INSIGHT — WHERE TO ESCAPE THE CROWDS
If you want to visit a beach that is almost as beautiful as Cathedral Cove, but has nowhere near the vast numbers of visitors the more famous spot gets, check out Lonely Bay.
It’s only a short descent down some steps to the bay, then when you’re there you feel tucked away from the world.
Lonely Bay
Hot Water Beach
I’m throwing Hot Water Beach in here for the pure novelty of being able to dig your own little hot pool on a beach.
Thanks to geothermal activity in one specific spot on this beach, at low tide (and two hours either side) you can take a shovel and make a shallow pool to lie in. The water that bubbles up from underneath is hot, sometimes scalding.
Opoutere Beach
Set a few kilometres off State Highway 25, and filtered from the road by a tall stand of pines, Opoutere Beach is resolutely remote. It’s highly likely that you’ll find yourself sharing the long stretch of white sand with only oystercatchers and endangered dotterels, which breed on the Wharekawa sand spit at the north of the beach.
As you walk around the estuary, you might also hear the screech of kaka and spot the parrots overhead.
Stay at Opoutere Coastal Camping for a pretty spot caught between a stream and pine forest. Or, head to the beach carpark which also doubles as a freedom campsite for self-contained vehicles.
Getting further off the beaten track: Heading north from Coromandel Town
The road looping around the Coromandel is just the beginning. If you have more time, or you like going to places that feel like the end of the world, I recommend heading north from Coromandel town.
That road will take you up through Colville and onwards, on a narrow, gravel road that twists and turns along the coast.
It’s not for the faint of heart, but it’s a stunning drive. Mostly, there’s just a selection of remote campsites up north, so it’s ideal if you’re in a campervan, or keen for a camping trip.
Waikawau Bay
Sunrise at Waikawau Bay
North of Coromandel Town is where things start to get more off the beaten track; or off the sealed road, to be precise. Head to Waikawau Bay to discover the largest DOC campsite in New Zealand, and another sheltered bay good for surfing and swimming.
Just over the hill at the south end of Waikawau Bay is Little Bay, spot that locals have done a great job of keeping secret. There are a few spots in the carpark for self-contained campervans to stay overnight.
For a scenic loop, head to Waikawau via Colville, then back down to Coromandel Town through Kennedy Bay. Stop at the Tokatea Hill Lookout for views out across both sides of the peninsula.
The most famous hike in the Coromandel is the Pinnacles walk, which leads to a 360 panorama of the area. It’s epic for sunrise and sunset, and makes a great overnight walk from Auckland (you can stay overnight in the hut or camp).
There are lots of other hikes in the Coromandel, though. Here are a couple I love:
The Coromandel Coastal Walkway
Broken Hills
Thanks for reading this far! I hope you found some inspiration for your trip to the Coromandel Peninsula. It’s truly an incredible part of New Zealand, and if you have the time it’s a joy to discover.
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