I’m a reluctant Aucklander. These are the places and parts of the city I like best.

A woman walking along Ponsonby Road in Auckland with the Skt Tower visible in the background — *Ponsonby Road*

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The Māori name for Auckland is Tāmaki Makaurau, which roughly translates to mean the place desired by many. Despite such a romantic name, Auckland can be hard to love at first.

I myself have an on again off again relationship with the city.

After living there on and off for six years, I’ve finally left the city for good — but I still love going back to visit.

After drinking weak flat whites and eating at disappointing bakeries in other parts of the country, I come running back into Auckland’s arms, wanting to be embraced again by the wine bars, restaurants, shops and other parts of the city that make it special.

An Auckland beach near Devonport, in the calm glow of dusk — *Cheltenham Beach at dusk — this is the view from North Head, which I love climbing for sunset*

It’s easy to write Auckland off as just the entry point to New Zealand — a lot of locals will probably tell you to skip straight past the city — but if you have a day or two to spare, you can find things in Auckland it’s hard to get elsewhere.

I did struggle, in trying to write this guide, with finding things that are genuinely interesting for visitors.

There are the big, obvious things, like the Sky Tower — which daredevils can jump off, or walk around 192 metres off the ground.

But I wanted to steer you towards some of the more alternative and off-beat things to see, do and experience in Auckland – the kind of things that a local friend would show you. These are the places I like to hang out when I’m back in Auckland for weekend visits; where you can under the skin of the city.

If you have more time, or just want to see more of the city than the tourist highlights, then hopefully you can find something to enjoy in my guide to the best things to do in Auckland.

Auckland at a glance

WHY GO:

Auckland Airport is the main entry point into New Zealand, so there’s a good chance you’ll arrive here, probably jet lagged. Stopping over gives you a chance to find your feet before setting off to explore the country (or equally, provides a stopping point before you get on a plane home).

Auckland isn’t the best New Zealand has to offer, but there are some real gems (Waiheke Island chief among those).

HOW MUCH TIME DO YOU NEED IN AUCKLAND:

One night is usually enough to see some of the central city.

Stay two nights if you want to do a day trip out to Waiheke Island, or any of the other islands in the gulf.

GETTING YOUR BEARINGS

The key areas you need to know:

Queen Street is the main artery through the centre of Auckland. Just off Queen Street you’ll find the Sky Tower and at the harbour end of the street is the ferry terminal (key for access to Auckland’s islands).
Britomart is the sleekest part of central Auckland, where you’ll find excellent restaurants and the design centred Hotel Britomart (a glorious place to stay)
Ponsonby is a neighbourhood right on the fringe of the city centre, with a long strip of boutiques from New Zealand designers, more great restaurants, and elegant wine bars
Karangahape Road borders the central city, adjacent to Ponsonby Road — Karangahape is where you’ll find a grungier, vintage vibe, with some fantastic cheap eats, gay bars, and music venues.
Waiheke Island is Auckland’s best day trip and the top thing to do if you’re looking for a relaxing day out before catching an international flight home (or for the day after your arrival).

THE HIGHLIGHTS:

Climb a volcanic cone for a view of the city, either Mount Eden/Maungawhau, North Head over in Devonport, or Rangitoto Island.
Head over to Waiheke to taste wine and bask in the sun — get a direct ferry across to Man O War, the only beachfront winery on Waiheke.
Shop and eat along Ponsonby and Karangahape Roads, the most interesting parts of Auckland.
Dive into Auckland’s restaurants — book First Table for 50% off food. I do this all the time, it’s such good value. Use this link to get $5 credit when you sign up.
Head out to the West Coast beaches, like Muriwai or Piha, for black sand and big waves.

WHERE TO STAY:

Stay in Britomart or in Ponsonby/Grey Lynn if you can. These are the nicest areas for visitors.

The lobby of Hotel Britomart in Auckland — FEATURED HOTEL

Hotel Britomart
An independent, design focused hotel right in downtown.

Check rates

Visit Waiheke Island, the island of wine

*Waiheke Island is famous for wine, but the beaches are equally as beautiful*

A day trip to Waiheke Island is easily one of the best things to do in Auckland. And not just for tourists; locals love to head over to Waiheke too, whether it’s for a day trip, an event, or the occasional weekend escape.

The island is beautiful, with pristine beaches, harbour views and a microclimate that gives Waiheke more sunshine hours than the mainland.

Once a hippie enclave, Waiheke is now become an upmarket destination.

Stunning vineyards stretch across the hillsides, and impressive holiday homes sit alongside the smaller, older homes.

It’s easy to catch the catch the ferry to Waiheke Island from downtown Auckland, and spend the day visiting vineyards.

You can get around the island with a wine tour, or on the public buses.

Even if you don’t drink, Waiheke is worth visiting for its gorgeous scenery and great restaurants.

My favourite places to go on Waiheke are Casita Miro vineyard, Oneroa Beach, and Mudbrick’s bistro, which has beautiful sunset views.

ACTIVITY SPOTLIGHT

See the ‘Far End’ of Waiheke with Kiwi Connect
I highly recommend Kiwi Connect as tour company on Waiheke — they are Waiheke locals and really care about giving small groups the best experience. Their ‘Far End’ tour takes you to Man O’War and other out of the way vineyards, for a more exclusive look at Waiheke.

Read reviews

Or visit one of Auckland’s other islands

Waiheke might be the star of the show, but it’s far from the only island in the Hauraki Gulf. From Auckland, you can hop on a ferry to a number of different islands, in search of sun, sand, and rare birds.

Tiritiri Matangi is a beautiful island sanctuary located a 75-90 minute ferry ride north of Auckland. If you’re interested in New Zealand’s birdlife, or approach to conservation against a tide of predators, it makes for a good day out.

Ferries usually depart in the morning and return in the afternoon, allowing for a full day visit to the island.

Another island that provides sanctuary to our native birds is Rotoroa Island. Sitting alongside Waiheke Island, I love the beaches and walking trails on Rotoroa.

Escape ferries have started a service which takes you to Rotoroa in the morning and Waiheke for lunchtime — I haven’t done this yet, but it seems like the best of both worlds. With a couple of hours on Rotoroa you can visit the pristine Ladies Bay, then set off for lunch at Man O War, Waiheke’s beachfront vineyard.

Explore Auckland's maunga — the volcanic cones that dot the city's skyline

*The view from the summit of Mount Eden/Maungawhau*

Auckland city is spread across a volcanic field, with around 53 volcanic cones still nudging up above the ground.

Many were destroyed as the city expanded, but some remain in good condition and still have archaeological evidence of Māori iwi (tribes) who once settled on the maunga (volcanic cones).

Maungawhau/Mount Eden is one of the most impressive volcanoes to visit, thanks to it’s height and the incredible depth of its crater.

You can pop into the visitor centre at Friends and Whau cafe to learn more about the history of Maungawhau and the other volcanoes, before strolling around the beautiful boardwalks for views of the city.

This is one of the best things to do in Auckland if you want to understand more of the Māori history and unique geography of the Tāmaki Makaurau (the Māori name for Auckland).

Another of the maunga/volcanic peaks I love is North Head, in Devonport.

*Sunset views from the top of North Head*

From the centre of the city, you can catch a ferry across to Devonport (it only takes 10 minutes) then walk to North Head for sunset.

The views from the top are panoramic, looking out to the harbour and back at the city skyline. I think it’s even better for views than Mount Eden.

If you want to spend some time exploring Devonport, which has a small village vibe to it, stop in at Flagstaff Gallery. As one of the longest-standing modern art galleries in Auckland, the Flagstaff Art Gallery has been representing local Kiwi artists since 1993.

And Mt Victoria, also in Devonport, has a World War II bunker — which is a now live music venue

Musicians in a bunker in Devonport — *Photo via Devonport Folk Music Club*

One of my all time favourite things to do in Auckland is go to Bunker Hill Unplugged. This event, held by the Devonport Folk Music Club, takes place on the last Sunday of each month, and involves various folk musicians playing acoustic sets in the cosy underground bunker. There’s free tea and milo at intermission, and in winter there’s a log fire.

The Bunker is a remnant from Second World War fortifications. Walk around Mt Victoria and you’ll still see some of the old gun emplacements, installed there as part of an anti-aircraft defence system.

I think using the Bunker for folk music events is perfect. There is a touch of the surreal about heading underground to listen to musicians play banjos and fiddles.

Even if you’re not in town for the Unplugged event, there are frequent club nights and concert nights held in The Bunker. If you like live music, and want to check out an event that most Aucklanders don’t even know about, take a look at their schedule.

The other very famous volcanic cone is Rangitoto.

You can catch a ferry out to the island and hike to the summit for views back to the city. It’s an easy day out, especially if you don’t have a car.

It takes around 2 hours return, with other trails on the island for longer hikes.

FOR SOMETHING MORE ADVENTUROUS

If you want to experience Rangitoto with a twist, one option is to join a sunset kayaking tour over to the island. You need to be up for a decent paddle and hike, but if you’re up for something different, this is a cool way to experience Rangitoto.

You’ll also be paddling back in the dark, for a chance to check out the city lights.

Explore the independent shops, bars, and restaurants along infamous Karangahape Road

neon lights on karangahape road in auckland — *Photo via Karangahape Road, check out* *their page* *for upcoming events*

Karangahape Road is one of the coolest parts of Auckland.

Karangahape Road has a long history of being home to Auckland’s queer nightlife, and it continues to be a hub for more fringe entertainment (I wrote about this in more depth for the Washington Post).

You’ll find drag shows here at Caluzzi Cabaret, gay bars, and plenty of other bars as well.

Karangahape Road is also packed with awesome independent stores, some of the best places to eat in Auckland, and groovy live music venues.

Going for a walk down Karangahape Road is one of the best things to do in Auckland if you want to see an alternative side to the city (and you’re not quite up for a night of lavish drag cabaret).

Pop into the vintage boutiques and see what you can find, or rummage through the many op shops (second hand clothing shops).

My favourite shops are Crushes, the Third Eye, and Smoove.

The independent stores on Karangahape Road make it an awesome place to seek out New Zealand souvenirs to take home with you.

Pop into Saint Kevin’s Arcade to see some cool bookstores, and get coffee and a snack at Bestie Cafe — the view from the arcade out to the city is gorgeous.

Candela (photo via Candela)

Pici (photo via Pici)

There are also some excellent restaurants along Karangahape Road. Some of my favourites:

Pici — epic pasta and a cute location in St Kevins Arcade
Candela — moody environs and delicious small plates
Otto — local legend of a restaurant
Coco’s Cantina — happy hour pasta specials, what more can I say

I will change the topic from K Road soon I promise, but just one more tip.

If you happen to be in town on the first Thursday of the month, you should head along to Karangahape Road after 5pm for live music, markets, food stalls, restaurants deals and late night shopping.

First Thursdays is an awesome monthly event which adds even more life and colour to Karangahape Road.

Regular events include live music at the Pocket Park Stage outside the Pitt Street Pub, a local artist’s and creator’s market in Beresford Square, and a Muckaround Comedy Show in Whammy Bar.

First Thursdays is a great opportunity to experience the best street in Auckland and all of the creative, interesting people that hang out here.

Stop by the bougie delis and boutiques along Ponsonby Road

Ponsonby Road has a slightly different vibe to Karangahape — it’s much more upmarket and posh. Think nice yoga studios and high end boutiques from New Zealand designers.

It’s still a great place for a mosey. The road is long, running along a ridge above the central city, so you’ll have views across to the Sky Tower in places.

Some stops on your walk (I’m sharing the Google Map links so you can save these to your personal Google Maps, which is something I love to do):

Beau wine bar is great for an afternoon glass of something in the sunshine. It’s owned by a Maori woman, so knowing it’s a great business to support makes the wine even sweeter.
Right next door is the Beau Deli, which calls itself a ‘ham shop’ on Google Maps, but it’s much more than that. A great place for coffee and treats.
Curionoir is a very cool perfume store owned by a Maori woman.
Duck Island is an ice cream shop with something of a cult following. They do awesome flavours and have great vegan options.
If you feel like dancing, head to Grand Central for live bands on a sticky dance floor.

Some of these activities are also great on wet and rainy days in Auckland.

Go to a show at Basement Theatre

With a bar that spills out into seats crowded into the corner of a carpark, Basement Theatre feels like the kind of cool, gritty urban space you might find in Melbourne or London.

In their own words, Basement Theatre “is a place where urgent and adventurous live performance made by independent artists is incubated and supported.”

It’s one of the coolest venues in central Auckland, with a constantly changing line up of events.

Head along for a show and support some of New Zealand’s emerging talent, and you’ll get to have a drink at a cool bar and mingle with people in the local creative scene.

Visit one of Auckland’s wild West Coast beaches

One of my favourite things about living in Auckland is how close we are to nature.

Within an hour’s drive, I can be on the wild black sand beaches of the west coast.

Visit Auckland Museum for exhibitions and cultural performances

auckland museum as seen from the domain — *Auckland Musuem, as seen from the Domain*

The Auckland Museum acts as kaitiaki, or guardians, for a significant collection of Māori taonga, or treasures.

This makes the museum an important stop in Auckland if you’re interested in learning more about Māori culture, history, and art.

The Museum has two dedicated Māori galleries and has Māori performances on a regular basis.

The park around the museum — the Domain — is also great for exploring.

Eat and drink your way around Auckland

Bar Queenstown, the rest of New Zealand can be pretty quiet after 7pm, so while you’re in the city, make the most of the nightlife.

Caretaker is easily one of Auckland’s best cocktail bars.

The entrance is down a set of discreet stairs down an alley off the main square in Britomart. Inside the dimly lit, lushly decorated bar, people sip decadent cocktails around small tables lit with haloes of golden light.

The bar doesn’t have a traditional menu — your server will simply ask you what you feel like drinking, and you’ll get a surprise drink whipped up for you based on your whims.

Go along on a Sunday, Monday or Tuesday night from 9pm and you’ll also be treated to live jazz, to complete the ambiance of a golden age New York cocktail lounge.

A few more cool places to eat and drink:

For an even more local experience, try Sri Penang on Karangahape Road — you can take your own wine for a $1 corkage fee, which makes it a very reasonably priced place for a dinner out.

Giapo, the ice cream maker, believes normal ice cream is boring and has created the whole enterprise around reinventing how we eat ice cream. The result is over the top toppings, upside down offerings like broken cones, elaborate and decadent chocolate drenched cones, and flavours that are surprising and delightful.

I love going to the prohibition themed gin bar the Churchill, which is located on the 20th floor of the Four Points by Sheraton Hotel. From up there you get amazing views of the city, and excellent drinks as well.

Hike the Omanawanui Track, one of Auckland's best walking trails

omanawanui track auckland — *The view from the Omanawanui Track in West Auckland — photo credit Miles Holden*

There are dozens of epic walks all around Auckland, but the Omanawanui hike packs in the best views out of all of them.

As an added bonus, you get to drive out to Whatipu Beach to walk the track.

It’s a gorgeous drive through native bush and across the occasional ford that makes it feel like you are out in the wildnerness, and not one hour from Auckland.

After walking the Omanawanui track, you can stroll up and down Whatipu Beach. Time it right and you’ll have a beautiful sunset here.

Thank you for reading

You being here is what makes my life as a travel writer possible, so thank you. I hope this has been helpful and you have come away with a better idea of where to stop between Christchurch and Queenstown.

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